Boasting all the buzz of a hornet’s nest, this soaring box of glass and marble virtually reaches for the sky. Inside, it's decked out with brass accents, terra-cotta and a tight counter positioned directly under Chef Enrique Limardo’s perch. Here is where he prepares an elaborate tasting menu that is a celebration of Latin flavors, ace ingredients and exacting technique, and is a departure from the a la carte offerings. Meals, served by the chef himself, take on an intimate if long form. Yet nobody's complaining, especially when offered such delights as kampachi tartare in kombu dashi with charred avocado seeds; aged hiramasa with leche de tigre; and snow crab salad with osetra caviar. In lieu of dessert, the brioche with camembert and truffle honey is quite perfecto.