‘Ichigo’ means ‘ranking in the top class’, proclaiming the chef’s ambition to stand among the top ranks of chefs. The menu proceeds from drinking snacks to grilled items and steamed dishes, then finally to sushi. Sushi rice is cooked in a broad-brimmed pot at high heat to permeate the rice with the red vinegar; this emphasises the rice grains while drawing out the flavour of the toppings. As he forms his sushi by hand, he engages earnestly with the guests lining the counter.