SŌWADŌ is just past Ebisu Bridge, which crosses the Shibuya River, but there is no sign. Pass through a cheerless grey corridor, then be greeted by cooks in crisp whites working in a lively interior. The eye is drawn to the ‘Genshiyaki’, skewers of fish and meat grilled slowly over a charcoal brazier as in ancient times. We recommend the dishes with which the chef feels a special connection: Unzen ham cutlet, nanbanzuke and steamed squid dumpling, for example. All are from Kyushu.