A stone statue of a dragon’s head watches over the restaurant entrance like a guardian spirit. Chef Ryuta Iizuka leads a kitchen team that incorporates Japanese elements into French cooking. As a native of Niigata, he supports his home region’s producers, sourcing shiitake mushrooms from Minamiuonuma and pork from Tsumari. Even the knives from Tsubamesanjo display Iizuka’s hometown pride. The restaurant’s name refers to the Japanese word for a watch crown; thinking about his guests leaving with a smile is what keeps him ticking.