The chef was drawn to sushi by the simplicity of a dish that is complete with only vinegared rice, wasabi, and a topping. Labouring as an apprentice from dawn to dusk, Kagura’s chef gained a thorough grounding in work that was faithful to the basics. As he moulds his sushi, the chef adds a unique interpretation to the techniques he learned. At lunchtime, his assistant does the hand-rolling because, mindful of his own learning experience, he does not neglect training the next generation.