The concept is French cuisine on a journey through Japan’s four seasons. The seasonally-focused menu lists the ingredients and where they came from for each dish, which the chef conjures based on recipes from the past. From riz au lait, made by cooking rice in milk, he came up with mousse of hair crab and Yamagata rice. Butterbur sprout, delivered in spring, is made into a tapenade in acknowledgement of its bitterness. Techniques are modern; the flavour focus, classic.