At once playful and profoundly earnest, this privileged playpen is adored by the Bay Area's elite. The studied cool of the kitchen extends to its crowd; and the striking warehouse setting, blends rusticity with refinement. Everything revolves around the roaring hearth.The kitchen is in steady hands and proffers an immersive experience. First, caviar cured with salt "barbecued" by the team, is wrapped in a seaweed bundle, then presented tableside before being set in a bowl of wilted, silken spinach and a seaweed-and-butter broth. Then, 18-day dry-aged antelope saddle medallion is an intriguing delight with jus made from bones and dried cherry leaf, thinly sliced preserved kumquat and a cup of bone broth to wash it all down.