Since opening in 1991, The Kitchen has felt like an uproarious party, emceed by the energetic Chef Kelly McCown. Diners are encouraged to get up and walk around, even to wander through the kitchen and rub elbows with the cooks. Really like that truffle dish? The chef, who frequently proclaims the menu’s caloric impact, nonetheless invites you to ask for seconds. The menu changes monthly and features far-reaching inspiration while highlighting the Central Valley’s treasure trove of ingredients. Expect creative dishes like a savory “canolo” filled with airy pea mousse is served with a rich sauce made with local buffalo milk mozzarella, or a “scallop” made from poached daikon seared with a copious quantity of butter—and remember that the central premise is to have fun.