It was always clear that the owners here really wanted to put their place on the map – and now they have the personnel to realise that ambition. Chris Archer is a chef who can deliver depth with just a handful of ingredients; he doesn’t need to fall back on gimmicks or unnecessary flourishes, as this is all about well-judged  combinations of flavours and textures. The 18C inn sits in open countryside, close to the Scottish border, and its last makeover gave it an inviting and contemporary feel – and that extends to its smart bedrooms.