Two steps from Les Halles, in the luxurious Albar Hotel, the Rostang family demonstrates that they haven’t lost their touch in this urban inn. Odette regales us with succulent dishes to be shared: seabass in a pastry crust, one of the house signatures, veal cutlets, roast guinea fowl. Her score is spot on and dotted with fanciful notes, like veal belly paired with Gala apples or lightly seared scallops with parsnip and cashew nuts. The addictive desserts are to die for, illustrated by a hazelnut and pistachio millefeuille sprinkled with confit of orange zest.