A map shows the locations from where the day’s ingredients came from. The chef wants his cooking to give guests a sense of the land and season that produced it. The riches gathered convey the bounty of Japan’s natural features. Flavours in their proper seasons, including bamboo shoots, sweetfish, mushrooms and crab, are broiled over an earthen charcoal brazier to delight all the senses. Arrangements are spare, giving the ingredients top billing. Antique vessels reflect annual events, conveying the culture of old Japan.