The setting may not be luxe, but this colorful plant-based dynamo from partners CY Chia and Shane Stanbridge has nonetheless earned a fanatical following. Billing itself as “authentic, not traditional," the cooking deploys bold flavors rooted in Chef Chia's Teochow Chinese-Singaporean heritage in a small menu of unique dishes boasting seasonal ingredients. One of the marquee dishes is the laksa, featuring slippery rice noodles in a riotously aromatic, complex coconut broth with rotating garnishes that might include smoky sambal made from urfa peppers and a chili crunch made with nutty pepitas; the crusty sesame-studded sourdough shaobing is also a signature. A select list of natural wines offers agreeable pairings for the generously spiced dishes.