Chef Akiko Thurnaeur is the brains behind this family-style beauty, complete with an ultra-modern décor and slightly eclectic vibe. Some flock to the bar up front, while hungry patrons head for the tables in the back to indulge in seriously comforting fare. A banquette on the left and long tables down the center make it a haven among groups.The open kitchen set aglow by gilded light fixtures turns out a menu that displays a clever blend of the flavors and techniques of both Japanese and Chinese cuisines. Naturally what follows is an array of of memorable plates, like soy-braised romaine finished with pumpkin seeds or dan dan noodles enriched by a poached egg.Much to the delight of the teetotaler, mocktails are given ample emphasis.