A rebrand in 2023 welcomed what was formerly called 'Le Comptoir' into the international stable of Robuchon Ateliers, yet as the original name implied, the counter still remains the best place to sit if you want a clear view of the chefs at work. The various menus, meanwhile, offer a wide selection of contemporary French dishes, from soufflés to langoustines, sweetbreads to lobster – and, of course, the legendary and gloriously buttery pomme purée.