This brasserie de-luxe occupies a Grade II listed former banking hall within the Sofitel hotel and while that means a certain grandeur, the atmosphere is never overly formal. Anthony Demetre’s cooking proves the perfect fit because it is equally impressive but defined by a refreshing lack of showmanship. His appealing dishes are as generous in size as they are rewarding in flavour, from duck and pork terrine en croute to rabbit with slow-cooked cottage pie. The delicious custard tart is a true speciality and if it was ever removed from the menu there would be protests on Pall Mall.