The owner-chef’s mild demeanour puts us at ease. Generous portions are an expression of thanks for coming all the way out to Kitashirakawa. He hails from Ōhara, so that’s where he sources his vegetables. He obtains his seafood in season from Awaji and focuses all his talents on its preparation. Pike conger, offered in early summer, is singed and served on a block of ice for a refreshing presentation. In late autumn the appetiser is a medley of items, celebrating an abundant harvest.