Kamo-ryori means ‘duck specialities’ and that is what this niche restaurant delivers. The shop buys ducks whole, so it can serve a wide variety of cuts. The meal starts with items such as gizzard and liver. Tenderloin is pressed between two sheets of kombu kelp; sirloin is smoked over charcoal, the fat melted into soup stock to heighten flavour. Nothing is wasted—a variety of techniques are applied to get the most out of every duck. The chopstick rests in the shape of a duck are charming.