The residential neighbourhood is a maze and there’s no sign for the restaurant. A spotlight on a bowl of ramen in a showcase indicates you’ve arrived. The industrial space has the feel of a laboratory. ‘Raamen’ is a blend of Kyoto wheat noodles in a clear soup of seafood dashi stock. Thinly sliced roasted pork fillet is from Kyoto-raised swine. Blue bowls of specially ordered Kiyomizu ware set off each meal to its advantage. Custard pudding, sweetened with refined sugar, is a popular item.