In contrast to the boundary-pushing Alinea and the elaborate whims of Next, Chef Grant Achatz's Roister is downright rustic and approachable. Boldly incorporated into its dark dining room, the kitchen serves as the focal point of this unapologetically loud and laid-back space—where the best seats are at the counter, facing the blazing hearth.The cooking is hearty and refined, incorporating that wood fire at every possible turn. Start with the likes of hearth-roasted rainbow carrots enriched by smoked labneh and pistachio croutons, before digging in to a bowl of rigatoni with Wagyu Bolognese. Smoke even finds its way into dessert, like a boulder of ember ice cream served on a bed of crushed hazelnuts, cherry jam and milk chocolate mousse.