Masashi Ljichi, chef of La Cachette, has made his dream come true in this wholehearted, flavoursome bistro, whose name pays homage to a former shuttle (bac) that used to cross the Rhône by way of a cable (traille). The accent is on big-boned bistronomic flavours and deft craftsmanship. Market-fresh cuisine and crisp plating, packed in punchy, heroic flavours. Fine selection of regional vintages. Knockout value for money.