Skewers are assembled with small pieces and char-grilled to lock in their umami. Of special note is how different seasonings are used for each cut. Displaying his originality, the chef offers tsukune (chicken meatballs) flavoured with sansho and gizzards marinated in herb vinegar. He also adds beguiling twists to bring out seasonal flavours: in summer, high-sugar tomatoes are seasoned with garlic; in winter, yam is wrapped in nori and grilled.