The chef’s themes are ‘seasonality and fermentation’. He incorporates mushroom and vegetable fermentation into the flavours of the four seasons, creating layers of umami and acidity. His light finish with olive oil is a touch learned in the south of France. Bread is served with a paste made from imperfect vegetables as an eco-friendly touch. ‘Sillage’ means ‘trailing notes of a scent’; the aroma of the cuisine leaves a lingering memory of the meal.