A cypress counter in a room with adze-hewn ceilings and clay walls – an austere décor by which the proprietor sets the tone. ‘Simple fare’, says the menu, whose offerings avoid shows of splendour in favour of honest presentation. Sense of season flows entirely from the taste and aroma of the food. Sashimi wrapped in kombu, for example, or wanmono prepared with clear soup. Results are all the more impressive for the effort paid where few will notice. Natural flavours to calm the soul.