The verdant valleys of the Welsh-English border are the setting for this well-run 17th-century coaching inn. The menu sticks to hearty, accessible and classically based dishes such as Welsh beef with dauphinoise potatoes and brandy peppercorn sauce. Ingredients from the organic kitchen garden are also likely to make an appearance. Warm, unobtrusive service and an impressive choice of vintage Cognacs add to the appeal, while the super-comfortable bedrooms have an understated elegance.