Though its name means ‘anything goes’, this restaurant is exceptionally specific about the food it serves – Isan cuisine hailing from north-eastern Thailand and famous for its infernal heat. The PenLaos signature chicken is marinated with white peppercorns and coriander for three days before being grilled to perfection. Leng zaab is pork ribs in a spicy sour broth that is simply addictive. Ask for the house-made Isan tamarind dip to dunk the pork in.