The dimly lit space in a century-old building on the Bund feels mysterious and theatrical. The vibe is matched by a season-driven menu divided into acts, like a play. Neo-Chinese creations are finessed by European techniques, and presented in whimsical and ceremonious ways. For a fine dining take on the classic beef in oyster sauce, beef from Shandong is marinated then deep-fried and grilled. Creative wine pairing options add to the fun.