Behind the counter and Japanese kamado (wood-fired stove), a young chef from Montpellier, who trained with Michel Kayser, Gilles Goujon and the Pourcel brothers, cooks everything over an open flame: lightly grilled sea bream served with squash purée, roasted grapefruit and coconut cream; Mediterranean squid seared on the barbecue, rainbow carrots and black garlic emulsion; pear poached in honey and tonka bean for dessert. In the dining room, his cordial wife guides diners through a selection of wines from the South of France.