On bustling Third Avenue in the neighborhood of Limoilou, ARVI is the stomping ground of chef Julien Masia, a Frenchman from Lyon, who cut his teeth in kitchens in the Alps. As for the decor in this open-plan space, urban edginess meets contemporary design (exposed brick and concrete). The chefs move between the kitchen and tables, as a trendy playlist sets the mood. Over the course of the single set menu (available in "regular" and vegetarian versions), ingredients from Quebec's terroir enjoy their moment: fresh tuna is paired with mint and watermelon, halibut from the Gaspé Peninsula is combined with carrot and agastache, and aubergine is accompanied by basil and hay. This is modern and refined cuisine in which each ingredient is given its due.