The founder was a hawker who sold fish ball soup over 150 years ago, during the Qing Dynasty. Now run by the fourth-generation owner, the brand has grown into a restaurant chain, but its speciality remains the same. Catch of the day is deboned, puréed, hand-beaten and hand-squeezed into flavoursome globes served in a pork bone broth. The mock chicken roll, made with water chestnut, minced pork and fish, is another must-try.