The owner inherited the family business in 2021 and relaunched the restaurant here. As always, the incredible range of live seafood on offer is the main draw – just look at the three-tier fish tanks at the entrance. Diners are expected to choose their own seafood from the tanks, but servers are more than happy to help. Chilled swimmer crab boasts melty roe and firm, flavourful meat. Swamp eel braised with tea seed oil and basil is silky and aromatic.