This discreet, low-key restaurant, a stone’s throw from the Étoile, sports two dining atmospheres: metal and leather on one side, and velvet and light wood with a view of the kitchen, on the other. The bistronomic-inclined score is market fresh and good value for money: vol-au-vent, guinea fowl and Albufera sauce; braised beef cheeks in green pepper, mashed potato and charred onions with button mushrooms…