Opposite the spot where a paulownia tree once grew, chef Geoffrey Belin and sommelier Tess Duteil (who met while working for Alain Passard) channel their passion for vegetables and good ingredients. In the wood-panelled space featuring a large curved bar, the kitchen focuses on dishes prepared à la minute and oven-roasted whole cuts (meat and fish). This comforting cuisine strikes the perfect balance: "winter summer rolls", sweet-and-sour quince; tortellini with smoked scamorza, celery consommé; braised endive, grapefruit and cloves. Notably friendly service and a keen sense of hospitality.