Mr Fritz is the owner-chef, but the restaurant’s name also refers to the novel by Erckmann-Chatrian, the hero of which sacrifices everything for good food. Such is the legacy of this family-run establishment (fifth generation now) devoted to lavish helpings of pedigree Alsace fare: presskopf, choucroute, iced soufflé laced in plum liqueur… In a similar vein, the interior oozes Alsace charm.