The chef began to specialise in tempura when, as an apprentice at a Japanese restaurant, he was placed in charge of the fryer. The tatami-matted interior recalls ozashiki-tempura, the practice of frying tempura in front of guests seated on tatami mats around a low table . Having diligently studied flavour in Tokyo and technique in Osaka, the chef adopts ‘taking the best from east and west’ as his theme. Tempura pieces are fried in sesame oil and served with warm dipping sauce. Pairing wine with tempura is advocated here, as the acidity of champagne and white wine brings out the flavour of the tempura.