Leaving the city of Tours to set up shop in this old property on a small square in the countryside was an easy step to take for Gaëtan Evrard, who feels close ties to the terroir of his Touraine homeland. Vegetables and meat from the region, fish sourced in Brittany – the ingredients are the star of the show, elevated by the market-fresh cooking of a chef who is not afraid to push the boundaries, a case in point being his white asparagus from Richelieu roasted on the barbecue, elderflower and black lemon, or fillet of red mullet cooked skin on, velvet crab jus with squid ink. Choose from the excellent list of wines from the Loire, which provide the perfect foil to the chef's creative cooking.