The name of Jason Atherton’s flagship operation is short for ‘Refinement of Work’ – and indeed there is a great deal of refinement in every inch of this mightily impressive restaurant. The premises, on the iconic Savile Row, have been fitted out with no-expense-spared luxury, while the service is charming and attentive in equal measure. Chef Spencer Metzger leads the kitchen, taking outstanding British produce and adding depth of flavour with unerring skill – as in the sika deer with a sublime sauce flavoured with red fruit and beetroot. The wine list, as you may expect, is an oenophile's delight.