Ring the bell and you’re welcomed into an operation unlike any other – the name may be old English for ‘kitchen’, but this is very much a restaurant of the moment. You start with a drink and the first course in the bar, then it’s upstairs for snacks in the kitchen before being seated in the intimate dining room with its bespoke crockery and pottery. The chef shows great pride in his produce, introducing layers of detailed accompaniments to enhance the natural flavours of the main ingredient. Desserts are a strong point, such as a creative mix of cep, dandelion and burdock.