Operating inconspicuously in a residential district, this kappo offers both omakase and a la carte, responding to diners’ preferences. Service begins with a selection of appetisers and great effort is expended on the wide variety of drinking snacks and seasonal flavours. The focus for wanmono is on delivering the aroma of first-draught dashi, whose fresh, light flavour harmonises well with the main ingredients. Fishing for sweetfish is the proprietor’s summer hobby; these fish are grilled in salt to allow diners to enjoy the pure bounty of nature.