‘Mube’ refers to the fruit of the Japanese staunton vine. The owner-chef adopted the name because it is considered a talisman of longevity and a famous product of his native Shiga. His use of that prefecture’s fermented foods reflects his personality, and he also prepares narezushi, a traditional fermented food of fish, salt and rice, as well as fish sauce and miso. Among his passions lies the interaction between dashi and the umami of fermentation, though he uses the latter’s characteristic flavour with restraint, in deference to modern tastes. A link climbing to the future for the food culture of his forebears.