The same owner couple has been running this snug, homely restaurant for 10 years, but the muted, monochromatic room doesn’t feel a bit dated. The 10-course tasting menu changes every 6 weeks, inspired by Taiwanese, Hakka and aboriginal recipes and demonstrates a flair for local Chinese herbs and spices. Most dishes are cooked over charcoal and the reduced sauces are free of starch. Try the chargrilled, smoked beef short ribs as a main dish.