Cratain is a portmanteau of Tasmania’s Cradle Mountain, which the owner once climbed. He draws a parallel between his restaurant and mountaineering, using the pristine white space as a blank canvas for dishes finessed with well-honed European techniques. The 5-course set menu offers flexible choices, together with á la carte options at dinner. Meat, chargrilled or pan-seared, is the main event, but the pasta is also a highlight.