The owner, who hails from Shaoxing, insists on driving back to his hometown every other day to source the freshest ingredients for his restaurant – which explains why the menu is handwritten on a white board and different every day. That said, the must-try stinky tofu is a permanent fixture: made with 20-plus-year-old fermenting brine from his family, it has rich deep flavours that complement the lamb brain it is steamed with. Try the river fish, too.