With only a handful of tables – all the more reason to reserve – and a contemporary, streamlined yet welcoming setting, this intimate spot showcases the chef-owner’s resolutely seafood-focused cuisine, though a couple of meat options round out the menu. Preparations and pairings remain largely classic, as seen in the gratinéed Breton scallops, while raw seafood also makes an appearance, sometimes unexpectedly atop pasta, as in the standout spaghettoni with cacio e pepe and red prawn tartare.