Flanked by private members’ clubs, the 17th-century Moltkes Palæ sits in a quiet street close to Amalienborg Palace. Within its vaulted basement sits a|o|c, whose elegant, sophisticated design takes in handcrafted oak and leather chairs, soft designer lighting and a tasteful piano soundtrack. There’s a long bar for snacks, a cosy lounge for petits fours and, as befits a restaurant founded by a sommelier, an impressively stocked glass wine cellar. Finely wrought dishes showcase top-quality ingredients and come with subtle global touches, such as in the razor clam with kosho or scallop with wasabi and tare.