It’s easy to pass by this slightly unusual restaurant, as it’s hidden behind a façade covered with hats – a nod to the building’s former life as a hat shop. A pop-up-turned-permanent, it’s now firmly established on the local dining scene, and its dimly lit semi-subterranean location and closely set candlelit tables give it an appealingly moody, speakeasy vibe. The cooking is perfectly summed up by its tagline – “Seasonal Ingredients, Nordic Roots, Global Inspiration” – with unfussy, pared-back dishes often coming with a playful edge, such as in their signature ‘paint-your-own’ tuna.