Wood sets the scene, including in the imposing feeding trough - this isolated old farmstead is proud of its rural vibe. A few modern details do however contrast with the initial portrait, starting with stylised photos, a glazed wine cellar and the smoked black glass service area. In the same vein, Christian Gingreau rolls out a modern score founded on tradition. The menu is concise and enticing: beef tartare, 30-day aged on the bone rib of beef, whole sole meunière, wild seabass and a new take on paella.