In a discreet corner of Birmingham’s Pizitz Food Hall, Chef Jacob Stull runs this modern dining room decorated in handsome blues and whites. Some walk-ins snag a seat at the bar and order à la carte. Others settle into the booths for a much more involved, French-inspired tasting menu. Brioche-crusted salmon with lemon beurre blanc is classic in style while the prime ribeye marinated in banana vadouvan miso shows a more adventurous side. While some moments have more style than substance, the kitchen’s penchant for risk-taking is noteworthy. An upbeat playlist, along with relaxed, attentive service, makes for a welcome, starch-less experience.