At the centre of a picturesque market town sits this 16th-century red-brick house, where the interior blends historic touches and an inglenook fireplace with smart modern design. To start, sample the signature Chiltern Black ale bread, before dining from one of a variety of menus that showcase the experienced chef's accomplished cooking, where the well-measured flavour combinations have an understated complexity. Seasonality is to the fore, as evidenced by superb dishes like local lamb sweetbreads with first flush garden peas and morel mushrooms.