Asfendiou has a few Byzantine churches up its sleeve. Zia, with its cool forest setting, has today become a little too busy. In contrast, the old houses of Asomati and little streets of Agios Dimitrios are appealingly quiet. The remains of the medieval village of Pilio, the former capital of the island, take you back to the Byzantine period. Andimahia and its fortress (15C) offer fabulous views. Kefalos is perched on the edge of a limestone cliff that is set aglow by the setting sun.