A maze of winding little streets leading to private courtyards or passing houses with faded colours, Old Bari is remarkable in its ability to transport you to an Ettore Scola film set: locals greet each other from their balconies, washing hangs from the windows, the men meet in cafés with no signs. Bari's historical centre has kept its authentic working-class charm and the somewhat decadent elegance of the cities of southern Italy. It is also home to a gem: the Basilica di San Nicola.